I've planned to change my old Volvo s40 with more power, comfort and still have high safety standard full size sedan. My choice goes to 2008 Chrysler 300. I really like the retro-classic exterior of the Chrysler 300 and the sound of HEMI engine is so entertaining. After searching some informations on the web, I have found very interesting Chrysler 300 reviews at thecarconnection.com. This site has a complete car reviews, photos, insurance and finance information and -my favorite page- tips and advice for a car owners.
Back to the Chrysler 300, this car is designed to give the driver a guide soft, quiet, comfortable and a continuous feeling of control and security. Chrysler 300 have a clean, roomy design interiors. I often bring my family for long distance driving, so safety is my concern. Chrysler 300 offers a wide range of passive safety - which is very important for muscle car like this.
Under the bonnet, Chrysler were developed four engines and two types of transmission: from the economic 2.7 liters V6 up to the powerful HEMI 6.1-liter V8. The 2008 Chrysler 300 reviews at thecarconnection.com mentioned that the HEMI engines are thirsty (around 14-15 mpg for city driving), it is fair enough, get the power - spend more money for fuel. For speed and torque lover like me, I'll choose the HEMI engine, the fuel cost is not on the top of the list. Now fasten your seat belt .... feel the mighty torque.
Friday, November 21, 2008
My next car: 2008 Chrysler 300
Thursday, August 14, 2008
SAVING GAS TIPS
This topic is popular again, even for the off-roader
ENGINE WARM-UP
1. Avoid prolonged warming up of engine, 30 to 45 seconds is enough (even in winter time), for old car (more than 6-7 years old) probably needs a bit more time (1-2 minutes)
2. Check/listen to the rpm idle, be sure the automatic choke is disengaged after engine warm up.
3. Don't start and stop engine needlessly. Idling your engine for one minute consumes the gas amount equivalent to when you start the engine.
4. Avoid "reving" the engine, especially just before you switch the engine off; this wastes fuel needlessly and washes oil down from the inside cylinder walls, owing to loss of oil pressure, this process also can damaged your turbo system if equipped
5. Eliminate "racing type" starts. Accelerate slowly when starting from stop, at least for the first 200-300m.
BUYING GASOLINE
1. Don't let your fuel tank close to empty, empty fuel tank store more fuel vapour and increase pressure in gas tank
2. Buy gasoline during coolest time of day - early morning or late evening is best. During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind - gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to "volume of measurement".
3. Choose type and brand of gasoline carefully. Certain brands provide you with greater economy because of better quality. Use the brands which "seem" most beneficial.
4. Avoid filling gas tank to top. Overfilling results in sloshing over and out of tank. Never fill gas tank past the first "click" of fuel nozzle, if nozzle is automatic.
DRIVE ECONOMICALLY
1. Never exceed legal speed limit. Primarily they are set for your traveling safety, however better gas efficiency also occurs. Traveling at 55 mph give you up to 21% better mileage when compared to former legal speed limits of 65 mph and 70 mph.
2. Traveling at fast rates in low gears can consume up to 45% more fuel than is needed.
3. Manual shift driven cars allow you to change to highest gear as soon as possible, thereby letting you save gas if you "nurse it along". However, if you cause the engine to "bog down", premature wearing of engine parts occurs.
4. Keep windows closed when traveling at highway speeds. Open windows cause air drag, reducing your mileage by 10%.
5. Drive steadily. Slowing down or speeding up wastes fuel. Also avoid tailgating - the driver in front of you is unpredictable. Not only is it unsafe, but if affects your economy, if he slows down unexpectedly.
6.Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it before you reach the hill, not while you're on it.
GENERAL ADVICE
1. Do not rest left foot on floor board pedals while driving. The slightest pressure puts "mechanical drag" on components, wearing them down prematurely. This "dragging" also demands additional fuel usage.
2. Avoid rough roads whenever possible, because dirt or gravel rob you of up to 30% of your gas mileage.
3. Use alternate roads when safer, shorter, straighter. Compare traveling distance differences - remember that corners, curves and lane jumping requires extra gas. The shortest distance between two points is always straight.
4. Stoplights are usually timed for your motoring advantage. By traveling steadily at the legal speed limit you boost your chances of having the "green light" all the way.
5. Automatic transmissions should be allowed to cool down when your car is idling at a standstill, e.g. railroad crossings, long traffic lights, etc. Place gear into neutral position. This reduces transmission strain and allows transmission to cool.
6. Park car so that you can later begin to travel in forward gear; avoid reverse gear maneuvers to save gas.
7. Regular tune-ups ensure best economy; check owner's manual for recommended maintenance intervals. Special attention should be given to maintaining clean air filters... diminished air flow increases gas waste.
8. Inspect suspension and chassis parts for occasional misalignment. Bent wheels, axles, bad shocks, broken springs, etc. create engine drag and are unsafe at high traveling speeds.
9. Remove snow tires during good weather seasons; traveling on deep tire tread really robs fuel!
10. Inflate all tires to maximum limit. Each tire should be periodically spun, balanced and checked for out-of-round. When shopping for new tires, get large diameter tires for rear wheels. Radial designs are the recognized fuel-savers; check manufacturer's specifications for maximum tire pressures.
11. Remove vinyl tops - they cause air drag. Rough surfaces disturb otherwise smooth air flow around a car's body. Bear in mind when buying new cars that a fancy sun roof helps disturb smooth air flow (and mileage).
12. Auto air conditioners can reduce fuel economy by 10% to 20%. Heater fan, power windows and seats increase engine load; the more load on your engine, the less miles per gallon.
13. Remove excess weight from trunk or inside of car - extra tires, back seats, unnecessary heavy parts. Extra weight reduces mileage, especially when driving up inclines.
14. Car pools reduce travel monotony and gas expense - all riders chip in to help you buy. Conversation helps to keep the driver alert. Pooling also reduces traffic congestion, gives the driver easier maneuverability and greater "steady speed" economy. For best results, distribute passenger weight evenly throughout car.
15. During cold weather watch for icicles frozen to car frame. Up to 100 lbs. can be quickly accumulated! Unremoved snow and ice cause tremendous wind resistance. Warm water thrown on (or hosed on) will eliminate it fast.
EXTRA TIPS
Use public transport ........
originally written by Ernest Miles, modified by Explorer
Monday, July 21, 2008
Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8
On and Off Road Exhilaration
Call it MOPAR madness or call it sheer, ingenious automotive marketing and engineering, but whatever you decide to call the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8, you must realize one thing: no production vehicle has effectively combined off road ruggedness with on road durability. Until the Grand Cherokee SRT8 came along that is. Yes, not since the GMC Typhoon has an SUV proven to be a highway dominator as well as an off road maven. However, the Jeep Cherokee SRT8 goes well beyond any 4x4 vehicle by delivering a versatile, pavement pounding, all-around SUV.
The folks at Chrysler’s Street and Racing Technology (SRT) group could not leave well enough alone. From the Neon to the Viper and from the 300C to the Ram pickup truck, no model has been too sacred to receive a proper work over from the team. First it was a bevy of Dodge models, then it was the Chrysler 300C, but no Jeep model had yet been targeted for the group’s overhaul. The Grand Cherokee however was past due as fond memories of the GMC Typhoon likely played a part in the decision to inject “SRT steroids” into a widely acclaimed Jeep model. Indeed, the SRT group knew that 0 to 60 in five seconds with the Grand Cherokee would beat the Typhoon’s numbers by about four tenths of a second, easily making the Jeep model the all time leader on the road as it is already off the road.
Much like the full size SRT cars sold by Dodge and Chrysler, a 6.1L Hemi V8 was the engine of choice for the SRT team tasked with building the beefy Jeep. With 420 h.p. and 420 lb.-ft of torque, the burly Hemi would serve duty in the Grand Cherokee SRT8 along with 20 inch Goodyear performance tires, Bilstein shocks, four piston Brembo brakes, a Quadra-Trac On-Demand four wheel drive system, and a capable five speed automatic transmission. Indeed, when the project was completed, the Grand Cherokee SRT8 was paired against the Porsche Cayenne SUV and the Jeep won!
If the Grand Cherokee SRT8 isn’t fast enough for you or if you want to experience a rich, deep tone while driving, then the aftermarket parts industry has just what you need.
Magnaflow Exhaust has developed a performance exhaust system that pairs well with the Grand Cherokee SRT8. Developed from airliner quality stainless steel, a Magnaflow Exhaust delivers more horsepower, frees up more torque, and provides a rich tone not found on the typical Jeep exhaust system.
When it comes to air intake systems, Dubair and Airaid have induction systems that work great with your engine. Dirt is filtered out and cool air is invited in to deliver more horsepower, enhanced torque, while offering a deep, throaty tone that is certain to inspire you.
Naturally, the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 has something that neither the current day Porsche Cayenne or the long since past GMC Typhoon could offer: thorough off roading capabilities. Like all Jeep SUVs, the Grand Cherokee SRT8 is trail rated so you get the best 4x4 capabilities matched to its top notch road competency. A true competitor no matter where you take it: the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8!
Jeep Tops: Anatomy of a Jeep top
Jeep tops are fairly universal Jeep accessories in that everyone from casual Jeep owners to hardcore off road enthusiasts has some basic knowledge of what they’re about.
But Jeep tops can get more complicated that one might think, and while it’s hard to go wrong when making a purchase, having an intimate knowledge about them can go a long way in extending the benefits.
For this reason, we’ve dissected nearly every imaginable Jeep top to take an in-depth look at what makes them must-have Jeep accessories.
Which Jeep Top?
It’s an age old question; perhaps one that has been asked since the time of the dinosaurs. Not really, but choosing a Jeep top has always been a decision that requires a fair amount of thought.
At first glance, choosing a top seems pretty simple. The features are all plainly stated, pictures give you an idea of what to expect looks-wise, and your particular environmental situation further dictates which one you need.
But there are also many factors that aren’t taken into account when shopping for a Jeep top. Intangibles like installation and frame style are examples of lesser-known aspects, while things like road noise or insulation are factors that can only be experienced firsthand.
With this in mind, I’ll do my best to cover aspects that are typically unaccounted for.
Factory versus Aftermarket Jeep Tops
When it really comes down to it, there isn’t a huge discrepancy between what both factory and aftermarket tops have to offer.
A factory Jeep top will give you that genuine Jeep look and feel, plus the added security of sticking to true Jeep accessories that follow the same standard of quality as the vehicle itself. Aftermarket tops are for the most part similar to factory units, but with a few exceptions.
Although both versions of Jeep tops are made from the same materials, equivalent quality, and with the same purpose in mind, aftermarket tops offer certain features, benefits, or other Jeep accessories that you might not get out of factory units.
For instance, certain aftermarket tops have been optimized to reduce road noise better than a factory one. Also, in the event that your Jeep top needs replacing, aftermarket replacement options are typically cheaper than factory tops. For these reasons, aftermarket options usually make for favorable Jeep accessories when replacing aging factory tops.
Narrowing It Down
The first and most obvious way to categorize Jeep tops in terms of need is by splitting up hardtops and soft tops. Clearly, the two styles are distinctive enough that each one serves its purpose in different ways.
Jeep Hardtops
Hard-style Jeep tops are a never-fail option. They rarely if ever need replacing and provide enhancement and heavy duty protection. In addition, they offer a number of handy Jeep accessories, like power windows, a rear window defroster, and more. Hardtops come in a one-piece model, or a two-piece configuration with a removable sunroof.
On the flipside, Jeep hardtops are not easily removed and stored for those who enjoy open-air summertime driving. Hardtop hoists and storage-based Jeep accessories are available, but require added purchases.
Jeep Soft Tops
For those who love customizability with their Jeep accessories, soft tops are the way to go. Available in a variety of designs, Jeep soft tops offer the kind of versatility, comfort, and style that justify a Jeep purchase in the first place. Plus soft tops are easy to install, remove, or store.
On the other hand, soft Jeep tops aren’t exactly ideal for colder weather. Their thinner material and fabric construction leaves them with poor insulation, and also gives them an average lifespan of only 3 to 5 years before requiring replacement.
Upon Further Review...
On the other hand, soft Jeep tops aren’t exactly ideal for colder weather. Their thinner material and fabric construction leaves them with poor insulation, and also gives them an average lifespan of only 3 to 5 years before requiring replacement.
Jeep Hardtops
When it comes to hardtops, making a choice and meeting the requirements for installation is relatively easy, and getting the right Jeep top is usually a simple matter of picking either a one or two-piece top.
Two-Piece Hardtops
The two-piece hardtop is the definitive Jeep top for year-round performance in any climate.
On one hand, you get the protection and insulation of a full-fledged hardtop during the winter. Then for warmer weather conditions, the cockpit features a removable roof piece for open-air driving.
In addition, hardtop Jeep tops come with a vast assortment of unique features and Jeep accessories like a fiberglass-reinforced plastic composition for durability, an in-mold gel coating for fade resistance, rear window vents, a rear window defroster, tinted tempered glass windows, an overhead dome light, and much more.
One-Piece Hardtops
In addition, hardtop Jeep tops come with a vast assortment of unique features and Jeep accessories like a fiberglass-reinforced plastic composition for durability, an in-mold gel coating for fade resistance, rear window vents, a rear window defroster, tinted tempered glass windows, an overhead dome light, and much more.
Jeep Soft Tops
Soft tops are where matters can get a little confusing.
To start, it is necessary to determine whether or not you have a pre-existing frame, and whether it’s in usable condition. Remember that the frame is the backbone of your soft top, and therefore a worn, rusted, or misshapen frame can cause your Jeep top to install improperly, or perhaps not perform as expected.
If you do have a frame already in place, you next need to find out if it’s a factory or aftermarket frame. This will ultimately help you narrow down which aftermarket Jeep top options are available to you, since certain Jeep tops are only compatible with particular frame styles.
For those without a Jeep top frame altogether, an aftermarket Jeep top kit that includes both the Jeep top and hardware system to set it up is suggested.
Pre-Existing Factory Frame Jeep Tops
These Jeep tops are designed exclusively for use with Jeep vehicles that have a pre-existing factory frame in usable condition.
Replace-A-Tops
For a fast, efficient, and inexpensive soft Jeep top solution, Replace-A-Tops make updating your old, worn factory top simpler than ever.
The Replace-A-Top is a basic Jeep top skin that easily slips on and off your factory frame. Each kit includes only the Jeep top fabric with optional clear or tinted windows, and the Jeep tops themselves are built to factory standards, or better.
Additionally, the Replace-A-Top includes a host of other fine features, such as premium fabric construction, mildew and UV resistant material, industrial strength thread, heat sealed seams, and much more.
Trusted Jeep tops manufacturers Bestop, Rugged Ridge, and Smittybilt each offer perfectly reliable and inexpensive Replace-A-Top models.
Bestop also offers a premium option in their Replace-A-Top Jeep top made out of revolutionary Sailcloth fabric to help improve insulation and drastically reduce road noise over factory Jeep tops.
Halftops
For a sporty two-seater look and feel there’s nothing quite like a Halftop Jeep top. Combining components of several other styles, the Halftop is the perfect hybrid of unique style and rugged function.
The Halftop includes all the usual soft top functions and Jeep accessories like mildew and UV resistant-fabric, a convenient fold back sunroof, zip-out windows, and much more, but then also incorporates all of this into an unconventional sporty look.
The Halftop Jeep Top from Bestop is actually something of an exception when it comes to having the right hardware for installation. It can accommodate those who have a pre-existing factory hard or soft top frame, or for those who have no frame at all.
Halftop Jeep tops are available exclusively from Bestop.
No Frame or Aftermarket Frame Jeep Tops
These Jeep tops are compatible with Jeeps that have either no soft top frame whatsoever, or a pre-existing aftermarket frame.
Supertop
You wouldn’t think from the sleek design and intuitive features that the Supertop Jeep top has followed mostly the same formula for decades.
Sold as a complete package with all necessary mounting hardware and Jeep accessories to get your started, a Supertop is a simple yet dependable solution for adding a soft top to an open-top Jeep. Its “Set-N-Stretch” fabric won’t fade or warp regardless of temperature, and the zip-out replaceable windows come in clear or tinted.
The Supertop also gives you a variety of other premium features like mildew and UV resistant fabric, industrial strength thread, heat sealed seams, heavy duty molded-tooth zippers for easy window installation and removal, and powder-coated rust-resistant frame hardware to ensure long frame life.
Best of all, using the Supertop framework, you can easily change out your top skin for a bikini top, or remove it altogether for open-air driving.
The Supertop Jeep top is available exclusively from Bestop, and is available in a complete kit with frame hardware or in replacement skins for those with an aftermarket frame already installed.
Rollback Sunroof Tops
These soft top Jeep tops follow the same basic formula of most other soft tops with the exception of a sleek and convenient rollback sunroof for a more open-air feel.
These Jeep tops also include all the necessary hardware you need to do a complete installation from scratch, and the versatile design also allows for compatibility with a number of soft door options.
Other features of Rollback Sunroof tops include mildew and UV resistant fabric, industrial strength thread, heat-sealed seams, heavy duty molded-tooth zippers for easy window installation and removal, and powder-coated rust-resistant frame hardware to ensure long frame life.
Current rollback sunroof-style Jeep tops include the Bestop Sunrider and Pavement Ends Flip Top.
Tiger Top
Vintage and classic Jeep owners need not feel left out thanks to the Tiger Top.
Designed and custom-crafted by Jeep tops leader Bestop, the Tiger Top Jeep top is built specifically for older model Jeeps, and even comes sporting that vintage Jeep look.
The Bestop Tiger Top includes all necessary hardware for a full installation onto an open top Jeep.
Your Jeep Top Purchase
Choosing a top isn’t as complicated of an affair as one might suspect. In the end, Jeep tops are all about getting the style you want at an agreeable price.
Hopefully this article has helped you in that decision-making process in order to minimize the hassle of buying and installing the right one so you can focus on the fun part.
Now go get your Jeep top.
source: Billy Han, www.4WD.com
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Choosing a Winch
Purchasing a winch can be a daunting task especially if you are on a budget. Considering the job of a winch, which is to recover your vehicle when you are sometimes miles for civilization, you must make an educated decision as to which winch you should buy. The cost of a winch alone can vary from 300 dollars on up to well over a thousand dollars. Then you have to factor in the costs of accessories and mounting options that go along with a winch. You may even have to consider upgrades to your vehicle such as a better battery and alternator of yours are marginal.
Like a fire extinguisher, you hope you never need it but when you do need to winch out of a sticky situation, you don't want to doubt the choices you made. So it's wise to educate yourself about the fundamentals of a winch so that you can buy the one that is best for your purpose. We hope this winch guide may help to explain the different types of winches and the components of a winch in order to help you make an educated decision with possibly one of the larger purchases for 4x4.
Major Considerations
How much Winch do you need?
Recommended winch capacity over vehicle weight. Typically manufacturers and resellers will suggest you should calculate the winch rating by taking the gross vehicle weight and multiplying it by 1.5 and that would be your minimum winch size. But this minimum rating is just that, a minimum. Certain factors can quickly cause your winch capacity to be exceeded so you need to think about your intended usage. Be aware that certain terrains and situations can put a much greater demand on a winch over the typical 1.5 multiplication rule of thumb. For instance a common cause for winching is mud. Mud however has an incredible suction force on a stuck vehicle and in many cases that 1.5 rule of thumb is far inadequate. Steep hills and frequent winching also put great demand on an electric winch. Understanding the purpose and safe use of winch accessories such as a snatch block can be invaluable when you need it most.
How Often and how hard will you probably use the winch?
This is an important factor in deciding what type of winch motor you will want to buy. Permanent magnet motors vs. series wound vs. Hydraulic winches. Each has an intended purpose. Light duty winching and a permanent magnet motor winch will do. More heavy and more frequent winching and you should consider a Series Wound winch. If you winch all day long, then consider a Hydraulic winch. We will cover all three types in the articles within this winch section.
What is your budget?
For many of us, it all comes down to available dollars and this is what is going to dictate what winch we are going to buy. Of course we'd love to get the top of the line $1500 monster winch but we have to be frugal. So for those of use on a budget, we have to decide how much money we have available. This dollar amount will have to cover the winch, the accessories and possibly a new front bumper or mounting kit. You may even have to consider installation if you are not confident about installation.
Do you have any weight or dimensional limitations or requirements?
The weight of the winch can vary somewhat. If you're primary consideration is to keep weight down, you may want to pay attention to those specifications. More important may be the dimensions of your winch. There are many aftermarket bumpers where the winch mounts internally. Therefore size may matter. Of the many different types of winches on the market, the sizes and dimensions can vary considerably. Solenoid mounting can be a major consideration. Winches can either have an Integrated or Remote Solenoid pack. A remote solenoid is externally mounted off of the winch. An integrated solenoid is part of the winch either within a "bridge" over the cable or mounted else where on the winch such as above the motor. There are benefits to both types of solenoid mounting options. With space restrictions a remote solenoid can reduce the space require to mount the winch itself while the solenoid can be mounted remotely while an integrated solenoid offers protection in a compact package.
Other considerations:
Warranty - Ready the warranty as they widely vary from a few months to years.
Serviceability - What if it breaks? Can you find a service center that will fix it for you or can you order parts to fix it yourself? Some of the bargain winches are not such a bargain when you have to hunt down hard to find parts especially after the warranty period.
Necessary Upgrades - With almost any upgrade to a vehicle there are usually repercussions to changing something from stock to aftermarket, whether good or bad. With the addition of a winch, the demand on your electrical system can exceed the system's capabilities itself. Consider upgrading your alternator to a high output alternator and be sure your car battery is up to the demand of winching.
Source: www.offroaders.com
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
How the Winch Works
Winch Mechanics
Now that you’ve familiarized yourself with your Warn winch and its components,we can begin reviewing how it works. The major advantage of an electric-powered winch is that it can provide reliable service for intermittent utility and recreational use even while the vehicle’s engine is stalled — assuming, of course, that sufficient battery current is available. Your winch can operate at high current loads, and, for this reason, the control box uses a high current control system to safely handle the current flow.
It is important to understand that the longer the pull, the more heat that is created, just like a hot plate. Prolonged winching without cooling the winch motor will damage the motor. Also, if the engine is idling during winching, the battery may drain faster than it is
charging. So pay close attention to your voltage gauge to make sure you aren’t draining your battery too low to start your vehicle.
The winch is controlled by the handheld remote control to allow the operator to stand clear while controlling the winching process. The remote control provides control of the forward or reverse rotation of the spooling drum.
How the Winch Reacts to Load
Warn winches are rated by pulling capacity. The maximum pulling capacity occurs on the first layer of wire rope on the drum. As the layers increase, the pulling power decreases. It’s the mathematics of winching. Exceeding the winch capacity could cause the winch to fail or the wire rope to break. Thinking through how you intend to use your winch now, could save you a big headache later.
Source: WARN - The Basics Guide To Winching Techniques
Getting familiar with your winch
Simplified from Warn – Basic Guide to Winching Techniques
You should familiarize yourself with your winch and each of its components: Practice using your winch before using it on the trail.
1. Motor Typically the winch motor is powered by the vehicle’s battery.The motor provides power to the gear mechanism, which turns the winch drum and winds the wire rope.
2. Winch Drum The winch drum is the cylinder onto which the wire rope feeds. The drum is driven by the motor and drive train. Its direction can be changed using the remote control.
3. Wire Rope The wire rope’s diameter and length are determined by the winch’s load capacity and design. Wrapped around the winch drum and fed through the fairlead, the wire rope is looped at the end to accept the hook’s clevis pin.
4. Fairlead When using the winch at an angle, the fairlead (or wire lead) acts to guide the wire rope onto the spooling drum. It minimizes damage to the wire rope while it goes through the winch mount or bumper.
5. Gear Train The reduction gear converts the winch motor power into a large pulling force.The gear train design makes it possible for the winch to be lighter and more compact.
6. Braking System The brake is automatically applied to the winch drum when the winch motor is stopped and there is load on the wire rope.The brake prevents the winch from paying out line, which in turn holds the vehicle in place.
7. Clutch The clutch allows the operator to manually disengage the spooling drum from the gear train, enabling the drum to rotate freely (known as “freespooling”). Engaging the clutch “locks” the winch drum back onto the gear train.
8. Control Box Using electrical power from the vehicle’s battery, the control box solenoids switch power to the motor, enabling the operator to change the direction of the winch drum rotation.
9. Remote Control The remote control plugs into the winch control box, allowing the operator to control the winch direction, as well as stand well clear of the wire rope while operating the winch.
Monday, April 7, 2008
Tips for Improved Tyre Life
For 4WD vehicles owner who sometimes bring his car to off-road condition, choosing a type of tyres to be suite in the vehicles can become a dilemma, H/T, A/T, or M/T? As some surveys said that 80% of 4WD vehicles used in sealed/asphalt road, here some advice to improved your 4WD tyre life.
- Purchase tyres correctly to suit your driving requirements and amount off-road use.
- Always set tyre pressure to manufacturer's recommended specification.
- For uniformity, try to set the pressure when the tyres are cold and use your own, good quality gauge.
- Don't forget to check your spare.
- Keep an eye on the condition and wear rates of the tyres a regular intervals.
- Rotate the tyres at 10,000 km at the latest to give even front to rear wear.
- Have the wheel alignment and balance corrected if tyres are showing uneven wear.
- Drive to suite the road conditions. Slow down in rough or rocky conditions.
- if using heavy A/T or M/T tyres on hot sealed road, reduce vehicles speed to limit heat build-up in the tyres.
- Limit your use of soft compound M/T tyres to soft tracks and sand as they can wear rapidly on sealed roads at speed.
Sunday, March 23, 2008
My Grand Cherokee ZJ problems.
My Grand Cherokee ZJ spec:
Manufactured : 1998 (the latest model)
Engine : 4.0 litre I-6
Trim : Laredo
Modification :
- lift 2”
- 31” tire
- After market shock and coil springs (OME)
- After market sound system.
List of problems and solutions:
- Front ring and pinion failed at 9,000 km. Symptom: noise from front differential. Solution: change the ring and pinion with the higher spec. This problem was common for latest version of Grand Cherokee ZJ.
- Air conditioner evaporator leaking at 25,000 km. Symptom: lost of refrigerant, AC not cold as used to be, the compressor clutch on and of frequently. Solution: inspect the evaporator, clean it. Found a big hole in the evaporator, could not be repair, then change the evaporator. Note: the evaporator made by Zanden, the size is relatively small compare to ZJ interior volume. The evaporator was located under the dash board, to uninstall it you need to remove the dashboard first.
- The master power window and central lock (on driver side) failed. Symptom: completely failed, no button functioning. Solution: Check the 30A fuse on the power distribution center under the hood, take it off and then put it back again. Usually the power window will work again normally. For better solution: make an on-off switch between the power window and the fuse, and turn off the electric charge when it not functioning. It is a common problem in Grand Cherokee ZJ, a continues electric supply to the central power window and central lock unit can make the system failed.
- Air Conditioner compressor failed at 38,000 km. The symptom almost the same with number 2, however usually the AC works fine at the beginning and failed after 1 hour trip (when the compressor reach its normal work temperature). Solution: Inspect the AC compressor, check for leaking. In my case, I open the compressor, overhaul it, and found most of the piston have been scratch badly, and some parts of the clutch have been damaged. I change the compressor completely. Note: My original compressor brand is Nippon Denso (ND), it is weird because the evaporator is manufactured by Zanden.
- Transmission high pressure hose leaking at 47,000 km. This is the high pressure hose from the tranny to oil cooler, leaking on the oil cooler side. Symptom: oil leaking and then dripping from the hose, loosen transmission oil, when the condition become worst, the automatic gear can jump suddenly to neutral in normal driving condition. Solution: change the high pressure hose, add the transmission oil. Note: to check your ZJ transmission oil level, park your car in flat area with engine running, move the gear lever to N and check the level using a dip stick.
- Engine misses throughout driving speed range starting at 51,000 km, the jeep engine misses in high rpm (i.e. above 2000 rpm). This problem occurs especially when driving a long trip. Solution: clean up the fuel tank, clean the fuel pump. Replace the fuel filter. Note: for my ZJ the fuel filter located inside the fuel tank, for pre 1998 ZJ, fuel filter located outside the fuel tank (more simple and easy to replace).
- Death Wobble, occur several times after I lift my jeep 2” and changed the stock tires with 31” tires (see my previous post). Solution: proper wheel alignment.
The rest are minor problems, like death battery, dirty power window motor. Generally the I-6 engine is very reliable and low maintenance.
See my other post about my ZJ compare to the Japanese 4wd in Cars and Bikes site.
Friday, March 21, 2008
Lifting Your Jeep
No matter the reason for lifting your Jeep, there are a number of ways to go about it. Before you pick which one is right for you, you’ll need to make some decisions along the way. First, you'll need to decide on what you’re looking to accomplish with the lift. Is it simply for show, or is it for go? Serious rock crawling anyone? Second, determine just how high you want to go. Looking for a little height for some mild wheeling or are you really serious about this height thing? Third, you’ll need to select the type of lift to use. Finally, install the lift or have it installed.
The basic methods for lifting a Jeep are Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts Kits, Shackle Lifts, Spring-Over-Axle Conversions, and Coil Spring Spacers. Jeep shackle lifts and coil spring spacers typically result in a maximum increase of 2 inches. Coil spring spacers are just what they say: spacers that are inserted under the base of the coil spring, resulting in lifting the springs higher. Shackle lifts are comprised of leaf spring shackles that are longer and lift the frame higher from the leafs. Both of these kits are rather inexpensive methods, but if you’re looking for more than a couple of inches, you’ll need to look elsewhere.
Spring-Over-Axle conversion kits allow you to change the location of the leaf spring from beneath the axle to sit on top of it. They’ll usually result in a lift of 4 inches or more. This can be increased by the size of springs you use with the over axle kit. Use of these can cause cantering, and steering linkage and driveline issues which must be addressed. It can become a little complicated for the less mechanically inclined among us (I’m one of them!). It will definitely change the handling of the rig. While the spring-over-axle conversion kits are rather inexpensive when compared to suspensions lifts, there is a good bit of time and money spent on fixing the issues it creates, which needs to be taken into consideration when assessing the costs of your various options.
With Body Lift Kits you basically unbolt the body from the frame, and place manufactured blocks between the Jeep's body and the rolling chassis. This raises the body of your Jeep but doesn't directly increase the clearance of your undercarriage. The body lift does allow you to run larger tires, which will increase your Jeep's clearance.
Suspension lift kits will directly increase the clearance of a Jeep. They call for installing taller suspension components (higher lift springs and longer recoil shocks). These systems deliver lift, better articulation, and better offroad handling. Unfortunately, they are the most expensive of the lift options, but they deliver the best handling performance.
When it comes down to choosing a lift, you’ll need to determine why you’re lifting the vehicle, and how much you’re willing to pay for it. If you’re only looking to add a couple of inches and you want the lift just for looks, a body kit, coil-spring-spacers or lift shackles may be just what the doctor ordered. If you’re looking to build a Jeep that is more offroad capable then you should look at suspension lift systems.
Many serious offroaders combine the suspension lift with a body lift for additional height. Installation of any of these lifting methods will usually change the handling of a vehicle. They all raise the center of gravity and will, therefore, affect side-to-side handling and cornering. This can be addressed by adding wider tires along with the lift. Depending on the type and size of kit you install and the model of your Jeep, you may need to install a dropped Pitman arm, longer control arms, longer brake hoses, a transfer case drop, and/or a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator kit (due to a change of the angle of the drive train on TJs and some Cherokees). It’s important to not cut corners when lifting your Jeep. Why spend the money on a lift just to compromise the handling performance and face potentially serious wear and tear issues with key components? Do it right the first time and it will serve you in the long run.
Whatever system you select, the one thing for sure is that the added height will help give your Jeep that rugged tough look most of us seem to prefer.
Monday, March 10, 2008
LWB or SWB ?
Muddy road:
A light weight short wheel base vehicle like Suzuki SJ410 is the best for this kind of terrain. The Suzuki will “float” above the mud. Some times a medium weight long wheel base vehicles like Defender 110 or Daihatsu Taft Hiline LWB are also good for this road. The muddy road condition is always not homogen, the opportunity to get hard ground is better with a long wheel base 4x4. The full size 4x4 likes Toyota Land Cruiser and Nissan Patrol will become the first vehicle stuck in the mud.
Gravel road.
LWB vehicles will give a better ride in this condition as long as the rocky road is not to rough. Riding a SWB 4x4 in this terrain will make your back pain getting worst.
Sandy dessert.
Both LWB and SWB are ok for this terrain. If you driving fast, LWB is better, more stable compare to the SWB vehicles
Rocky road
In this condition, a SWB vehicles with high departure and overhang angle will give an advantage to pass a rough rocky road. Suzuki SJ410, Wrangler Jeep and Toyota FJ40 will meet this qualification.
Steep hilly road.
The stability of LWB vehicles will take an advantage in this condition, especially when downhill.
For myself currently I choose a 4x4 to compromised all terrain above, Jeep Cherokee XJ. The wheel base is not short like Wrangler or SJ410, but still shorter than Land Cruiser or Nissan Patrol. With 32” tire, I can manage almost all obstacles and still feel comfortable while driving.
So, what vehicles is good for you?
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 litre
Pajero is one of few real off-road workhorses, in the market it has competitors like Toyota Land Cruiser, Nissan Patrol and Jeep Grand Cherokee. Pajero can’t compared to the premium brand likes Range Rover or BMW X5, Pajero is though, real workhorse with bullet proof engine.
Pajero brief fact:
- Engine: 3200 cc four-cylinder diesel
- Output: 158 hp at 3800 rpm
- Torque: 275lb ft at 2000 rpm
- Transmission: 5 speed auto
- Fuel consumption: 26 MPG
- Weight: 2155 kg
- Top speed: 106 mph
Engines and Performance
The Pajero 3.2-litre direct injection diesel produce 158 bhp and 275lb ft torque. Although the power is slightly less than its competitor, however the high torque made Pajero is more flexible. The engine bit noisy, especially from the outside. While power is on the low side, the engine delivers tons of torque at under 4000 rpm, good for off-road driving and climbing steep grades. Fitted with Mitshubishi’s new INVECS-II five speed auto transmission, the Pajero has optional fully automatic mode or sequential manual shift. The quality of the automatic change reduces the temptation to use the manual option, although it can come in handy for accelerating hard out of junctions. The manual changes would benefit from being less hesitant.
Ride and Handling
In the asphalt road Pajero is quick and comfortable, body roll appears during cornering. The steering is good, its accuracy and a relative quick rack helping you make correction off road. As the result of fitting a multi link rear axle, Pajero lack of ground clearance. The traction system was rarely problem. The four-wheel drive system is switchable, operating as rear-wheel drive under normal conditions. The Pajero off road capability slightly less than its competitor Toyota Land Cruiser. The Pajero's soft suspension is generally forgiving and smooth on the highway. Road feel is never very lively in 4x4s, but the Pajero's rack-and-pinion steering is a big improvement over the previous model's setup. Road and wind noise make an appearance at moderate highway speeds. Cornering response is predictably ponderous, with pronounced side-to-side roll. Let's just say cornering quickly with the Pajero is not a very good idea. The Pajero features big ventilated disc brakes front and rear, necessary to haul this truck down from highway speeds, and they work adequately well in conjunction with ABS.
Interior and Driving environment
The cabin is not complicated, is comfortable, robust and roomy. The quality is moderate. Pajero has seven seats. The third row of seats fold out of the floor, a neat system that creates valuable spaces when the seats are not in use. The shogun’s boot is narrow and tall, although with the rear seat folded it’s more usable. Driving position is good, visibility is excellent. The design of centre console is modern, however the fake wood in the dash look ugly. The Pajero dials composition and design is out of date.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Lifting the Grand Cherokee to fit 31” tire.
To fit 31” tire in ZJ Jeep required body lift around 1.5” to 2”. There are plenty of suspension lift kits available in the market. Before lifting the jeep, please check the front drive shaft type, if your ZJ equipped with U-joint drive shaft, it is save to lift the body up to 2”, but if the ZJ equipped with CV-joint front drive shaft, please do not lift the body more than 1.5”. To gain 1.5” to 2” body lift, we can use:
This is the cheapest way to gain 1.5 to 2” lift, just add polyurethane spacer on the top of the coil spring. Usually the spacers sold together with bump stop extension. For this method will cost around 60 dollar up to 150 dollar.
There are many suspension products are available on the market, one of them is Old Man Emu brand (picture above) manufactured byARB. The Old Man Emu suspensions are not typically noted as a lift kit. They are usually regarded as suspensions systems. However, depending on vehicle weight and application, a lift of 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" can be gained. Many lift kits require a sacrifice of ride quality for off-road performance, but Old Man Emu is able to combine both to give outstanding ride quality with excellent spring articulation. Old Man Emu recommends using 31" tires for best performance. This suspension system will cost around 500 to 700 US dollar.
Combination of the above system.
This is what I did with my ZJ. After installed the OME spring and shock, the 31” tire still rubbing the fender. I suspect that the installation of the new OME spring and shock have not reach 1.5” lift as their claimed. So, I added ¾” polyurethane coil spacer (cost me 59 USD, bought from 4WD store) and the tire just fit, not rub the fender anymore. However, the tire still rubbing the front lower arm in the maximum turn position. To avoid this, we can add a wheel spacer or reduce the maximum wheel turn through an adjustable bold.
The pictures below showing the ZJ jeep with 29" stock tire and with 31" new tire.
So what we got after installing 31” tire?
- Higher ground clearance
- Better look
- Plenty options of tire type (HT, AT, MT, super swamper, etc.)
Notes:
- Don’t forget to re-align the will after installing the lift-kit
- After one year using the OME system in normal road driving condition, I feel the shock absorber going weak, this is much shorter than I expected. In near future I have aplan to change the OME shock with Pro Comp which is much cheaper with almost the same quality.
Monday, February 18, 2008
TJ WRANGLER
All Wranglers have part-time four-wheel-drive systems with two-speed transfer cases. This, plus the short overall length and minimal overhangs, gives the Wrangler an almost unstoppable nature off-road, but provides a somewhat bouncy ride on anything but smooth pavement. Axles on a standard Wrangler are Dana 35s, with a 3.07:1 ratio; the tall gearing works against the four-cylinder and the TJ's barn-door aerodynamics on the highway. The axle option is the locking Dana 44 with a 3.55:1 axle ratio, which promises better acceleration and off-road capability in four-low. (The '03 Rubicon model offers a pair of these locking axles as standard equipment, along with upgraded suspension.)
The TJ have saveral trims i.e: Base SE (2.5-liter, 120-hp inline-4), Sport (4.0-liter, 190-hp inline-6, fancy wheels and graphics) and Sahara (4.0-liter six, air-conditioning, upgraded upholstery, CD player) trims were offered initially. By 2003, the Wrangler "X" (slotted above the SE and featuring the inline-6) and "Rubicon" (featuring hard-core off-road stuff such as a super-low range in the transfer case, 31-inch tires and locking Dana axles front and rear) trims debuted. Transmission choices included a five-speed manual and three-speed automatic, the latter upgraded to a four-speed unit for 2003. The new-for-'03 2.4-liter DOHC four sourced from the Liberty SUV adds 27 horsepower compare to the previously 2.5 inline-4. This 2.4 liter engine is quite enough for hauling TJ body especially for city and light offroad driving.
In 2004, Jeep introduced the Wrangler Unlimited model; it still had only two doors, but a 10-inch wheelbase stretch provided a significant increase in rear legroom and cargo capacity. A Rubicon version of the Unlimited arrived the following year, and a six-speed manual gearbox replaced the five-speed.
The engines are nearly bullet proof, especially the 4 liters inline-6. The 4.0-liter throttle-body butterfly needs to be kept clean, as coking up will cause an air leak at idle--watch for fluttering idle speed, however if you regularly maintain the engine, there is almost no problem with the engine. My 1998 TJ has almost 100,000 miles on the odo, without any major problem with the engine. A typical service interval between tunes and fluid changes is 24,000-30,000 miles. Those manual transmissions should be serviced at 30,000-mile intervals in normal usage, more often if used heavily off-road. You should put more attention in the hoses, either power steering hose, automatic transmission cooler hose or engine cooling sytem hoses. By age, this rubber hosses start to torn, or leaking. Leaking in transmission oil cooler hoses can damage your entire automatic transmission system.
The Jeep Wrangler for its off-road agility and personality is superb but scorned the plastic side windows and fussy soft top. This TJ is good for commuter duty, considering the vehicle's loud and busy ride at freeway speeds. Gas mileage as always become a main issue in Jeep was mediocre, slightly better than Grand Cherokee, its about 1 liters for 6 km in the city and 1 liters for 8 to 9 km in freeway. The standard, non-Rubicon version of the Wrangler Unlimited had slightly better road manners, thanks to its longer wheelbase and revised suspension tuning. However the Rubicon version which is superb in off-road capability but simply too harsh and bouncy on the blacktop.
When you buy a TJ a bunch of accessories are waiting to follow, there are plenty and almost unlimited choice. However suspension modification and lifting the TJ should be done properly, otherwise a typical jeep problems like death wobble, unbalance drive shaft, cv joint damaged can occur any time. And the last, ...be ready, every eyes will following you, .......Wrangler TJ is so sexy.
See my other post about wrangler jeep in Cars and Bikes blog
Friday, February 15, 2008
BUYING USED: GRAND CHEROKEE WJ
These models were fulltime 4WD and came with the option of Quadra Drive II 4WD traction system, which provide limited locking of the front and rear diffs. While the system worked well, it was no match for diff locks, so if you are buying a Grand for hard off-road use, avoid the Quadra Drive equipped version, as it’s hard to convert them to run lockers.
Because of their monocoque chassis and very short front and rear trailing arms, WJ/WGs don’t lend themshelves to extreme off-road modifications. These models benefit from simple mods like fitting swaybar disconnects, a 2 in lift and diff locks, which combine to make the Grand a pretty capable playmate.
Again, if you want a 4WD to use for hard core off-roading, it’s best to look elsewhere. While they have been modified to performed off road miracles, be prepared to fork out plenty to achieve this end. Aftermarket products are limited compared to TJ, XJ and ZJ, especially if you are living outside of US, even bullbars are only sold by few suppliers.
BUYING USED
Being luxury vehicles, and priced accordingly when new, most WJ/WGs were purchased by older, more sedate owners and were seldom modified. This means there are plenty of good examples floating about that haven’t set foot off-road.
Because of the complexity of these vehicles and their quirky faults, it is always advisable to take any prospective buys to a Jeep specialist for once-over. To help you choose a vehicle worthy of a second opinion, follow this step:
- Walk around the vehicle and take a long look at the body work in good daylight, checking for paint inconsistencies and misaligned panel gaps that indicates the Jeep after a crash.
- Open the doors and check that the woodgrain trim inserts aren’t starting to fall off. Check the electric front seat adjuster, as well as heated seat work, which are prone to failing.
- Inspect the CV joint in the front propshaft, this joint breaks without much effort when off roading. Some manufactures offer a uni-joint replacement kit, which prevents this happening again.
- Check the outer front axle seals aren’t leaking this will be evident by oil around this area
- Looks for leaks around the transfer-case output shaft seal.
- Inspect leaks from the inspection cover gasket on the front and rear diffs.
- Under the hood, first check for coolant leaks from the radiator, the leaks occur commonly between the aluminium radiator core and the plastic side tanks. It is very important that there are no coolant leaks, because if the V8 engine overheats, and plenty of them have been known to, the alloy heads expand and cause the steel valve seats to fall out, causing major and expensive engine damage.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
4x4 Parts and Accessories Links
My favorite links for 4x4 parts and accessories are listed below:
- WARN : winch, body armor, axle, lighting system, bumpers and mounting system, etc.
- 4WD : Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories – Low Prices and Fast Shipping – Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories.
- ARB : Australian 4WD vehicle accessories manufactures. Bull bar, body armor, IPF light etc.
- QUADRATEC : Jeep Accessories at Quadratec. Specializing in Jeep Wrangler, Jeep Cherokee, Jeep Rubicon and off road Jeep parts.
- CALMINI : manufacturer of quality Suzuki, Isuzu and Nissan suspensions systems, lift kits and 4x4 performance products.
- SKYJACKER : suspension, lifting kit etc.
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
PETROL VS DIESEL ENGINE
1. Petrol or Diesel engine?
2. Engine capacity and engine output (in this case are power and torque).
3. Where do you live, is in country with good quality fuel or in the country that most of the fuel are contaminated.
4. What the main use of your 4WD, long distance trip? Camping? Soft off-roader? Hard off-roader, rock crawling? City slicker?
The ideal powerplant for an off-roader is able to produce its power at low RPM. Engines that do this can be driven in higher gear ratios in difficult terrain which is advantageous because the higher the gear ratio, the less chance of wheel-spin and the more delicately the driver can control the engine’s power output. Engines designed with long piston strokes tend to do this.
Good off-road driving technique calls for selecting the right gear for the conditions. If the gear ratio selected is too high, a more powerful engine may still have the torque to get through, but if the gear selected is too low, a big engine could, if not handled skilfully, cause excessive wheel-spin and bogging down. For a novice driver therefore, high power is often a disadvantage. For long distance travel, larger engines are more reliable than small ones because they rev slower – but the penalty comes in higher fuel consumption.
FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS (JEEP)
There are some parts that always become a discussion among the four wheelers, one of them is front suspension parts. The sketch below is a typical front suspension of 4WD LHD Jeep (CJ, YJ, TJ, XJ and ZJ), lets get familiar with the termination.
1. Stabilizer Links
2. Shock Absorber
3. Upper Suspension Arm
4. Stabilizer Bar
5. Coil spring
6. Jounce Bumper / Bump Stop
7. Lower Suspension Arm
8. Track Bar
9. Axle and Differential
10. Steering Stabilizer
11. Drag Link
12. Tie Rod
13. Cross Member
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
DEATH WOBBLE
Since I have quiet a lot of experienced dealing with death wooble in my cherokee and grand cherokee jeep, I will post several articles for this subject including my own experience. The next article wrote by Nathaniel Long three years ago, its can use as basic reference for death wobble.
If you drive a Jeep Cherokee or Grand Cherokee and are considering a suspension lift, you may want to think twice. Unfortunately, I was forced to learn this the hard way. I bought a brand new 2001 Jeep Cherokee a couple years ago, and almost immediately stacked on Pro Comp’s 3” lift kit with some 32 x 11.50 r 15 Super Swamper TSL tires. After a couple months of good riding, I started to experience what jeep enthusiasts have come to know as “the death wobble.”
The death wobble is basically when you are driving your lifted jeep down the road and the front end starts to shake violently. It can happen at virtually any speed, though mostly above 40 mph or so, and is a frightening experience, especially for those witnessing it for the first time. Now it doesn’t throw you off the road or anything … the front end just shakes. And the only way to stop it is to slow down and pull over. So it wasn’t that hard to get used to at first. But as it happened more and more, it seemed to get more and more out of control.
After driving with at least one death wobble per day for about three months, I decided to take it into the shop and see what the problem was. Being of course that off-road shops are primarily in the business of ripping people off, they gave me a list of “everything that was wrong with the front end that is causing the ‘TJ shimmy.’” Their proposal included the rotation and balancing of my tires, new front (and rear “cause you might as well”) shocks, new and stronger track bar, new and stronger drop pitman arm, new and stronger lower control arms with some special urethane bushings, and new sway bar links. Basically, with the exception of my original lift springs, the reinstallation of the entire Pro Comp lift kit with “better” components.
The bill was just over $1000.00. But to fix my death wobble, and hence my daily fear for my life, it was worth it. And even better, the new components would be strong enough to support a 6” lift if I ever wanted to go that big. The words of the salesman still ring in my ears: “Dude, you could totally run 35s with this setup.”
For the next couple months, everything ran fine again and I just assumed that my former Pro Comp parts just sucked. I even took the kid’s advice and jumped up to 33 x 12.50 r 15 tires. My new components were working brilliantly. Then one day, riding down I-70 toward the mountains, I hit a pothole and back came the death wobble. For the next couple months, I experienced the death wobble every time I hit a pothole, crack, or even merged onto a simple uneven lane.
Back at the shop, the guys, obviously not recognizing me from six months before, gave me the same proposal as the first time … almost word for word, too. My shocks, track bar, pitman arm and control arms were all shot again and needed replaced with their “better and stronger components.” The guys didn’t even take the time to see if my components were the same ones they had sitting on the shelf. In fact, the parts they wanted to give me this time were likely the same Pro Comp components they had replaced initially. At this point, I realized that I’d have to take matters into my own hands.
I had a buddy sit in the driver’s seat of my jeep and shake the steering wheel back and forth in an attempt to recreate the death wobble so I could view it from the other side. After not even two minutes, it became clear to me what the problem was. All my components were fine. The shaking was coming from the frame rail, which is connected to the axle.
What was happening was simple: My tires, as off road tires tend to do, kept going out of balance. Therefore, when I hit a pothole or uneven pavement, or too high a road speed, the tires would start to wobble and fight back and forth against each other. This is probably how Fred Flintstone felt driving around with those rock tires. The fighting tires would cause the axle to shake back and forth, which in turn caused the frame rail to shake. Hence the death wobble. Now the wobble could have been stabilized by the bar attached to the frame rail; if only it was attached to a real frame.
See, Jeep Cherokees and Grand Cherokees have what is referred to as a unibody design. This means that they don’t have frames like a real vehicle, just a combination between a frame and a body. It’s kind of like a tin can on wheels. And if you put tires under that tin can that are too big and heavy for it to handle, it’s going to shake all over the road.
Now I’m not saying don’t lift your Cherokee, I’m just saying don’t lift your Cherokee too high. It can handle 31s or 32s, but if you get any bigger or heavier tires, it won’t be strong enough to consistently support them. If you want to lift a Jeep vehicle for off road purposes, I’d recommend a Wrangler. It has a frame, meaning it can handle big and heavy tires, not to mention a roll over.
If you’ve already got a Jeep Cherokee and are experiencing death wobble, don’t listen to the guys at the shop. They’re just trying to get your money! Test each of the components of your front end yourself. Most of them are rock solid and rarely need replacement. Instead, just get your tires balanced. It should fix the problem right away, at least until the tires go out of balance again. To end it permanently, unless you can somehow fabricate a stabilizer bar to strengthen the front-end frame rail, the only thing you can really do is switch down to smaller tires. Or buy a normal road car …
Sunday, February 3, 2008
BUYING USED: GRAND CHEROKEE ZJ
The Jeep Grand Cherokee is a midsize SUV made by Jeep, a division of Daimler-Chrysler. The Grand Cherokee was a spinoff of the notably smaller Jeep Cherokee. The ZJ models, manufactured from 1993 to 1998, originally came in 3 general trims, the Base, Laredo, and the Limited. The Base model (also known as SE) offered basic features such as full instruments, cloth interior, and a five-speed manual transmission; The SE model was dropped in 1996 in favor of the Laredo. The Laredo is the mid-scale model, features included added body cladding, fancier seats, power windows, power door locks, and cruise control; exterior features display a medium grey plastic lower body paneling and five star spoke aluminum wheels. The Limited is the premium model, with the lower body paneling being the same color as the vehicle color. The Limited also boasts features such as leather seating, optional power sunroof, mirrors, seats, and remote keyless entry system; a basic onboard computer; and waffle-like cast aluminum wheels.
4WD systems included Command-Trac, a part-time unit offering temporary 4-wheel assistance; Command-Trac was dropped from lineup in conjunction with the SE trim in 1996. Select-Trac had the option of either full-time or part-time operation; Both shift-on-the-fly Command-Trac and Select-Trac were already available for the Cherokee XJ lineup, and were adopted to the ZJ platform. Exclusive to the Grand Cherokee was the introduction of Quadra-Trac having all-time four-wheel assistance only, this was standard on all Limited and specialty trims and optional for Laredo models alike. Two-wheel-drive models were sold though only for "Laredo" trims in late 1993, it wasn't until 1994 when 2WD was available for Limited; and in 1997 5.2 L V8 engines were sold along with 2WD.
What to Check and Inspect
For general check please read my previous post in this blog. After general check at exterior and interior, lets go more detail for ZJ inspection:
ZJ Interior:
- check the driver side power window control panel, makes sure all power window are works. This power window control is easy to be failed caused of electrical problem. To fix it is pretty easy, normally the mechanic add on/off switch between the fuse and the power window control. If the control failed, simply disconnect the electric current for a while and reconnect again, usually the PW will work normally again.
- Check the steering wheel cover quality, most of them easily to torn, its minor problems but you will facing it for every time you drive this ZJ
- Inspect the spare tire location on the rear cabin, make sure all the tire lock parts still in there, if the ZJ used 31” tire, the hanger must be have been modified, caused its design for 29” spare tire.
- If the ZJ equipped with electric seat, try to operate it.
Under the Body:
- inspect the CV boots, if it already torn, look at inside the boot, if you find some grease still in there it might be ok, but if you find a dirt or sand, its better to look at for another ZJ.
- Check the CV boot and joint at front drive shaft (this is for 97-98 ZJ), this part is easy to damage especially if the Jeep have been lifted more than 2” without modification on its drive shaft. The older ZJ used U-joint and slip yoke same as the one installed in XJ Cherokee.
- Check the exhaust system, the catalytic converter, muffler and also fuel tank. A poorly dent, bent and scratch in this area indicated an abuse using while off roading by the previous owner.
- If the ZJ have been lifted, make sure its installed properly, including proper wheel alignment. Death Wobble is common in this ZJ.
- I’m not recommended to buy a ZJ which have lifted more than 2”.
Under the Hood
- As mention in my other post, the AMC i6 engine is really a bullet proof, not many problems with it. Just check for the fluid, especially the coolant, make sure there is not oil trace in there.
- Pick the auto transmission oil dip stick, check the quality and the quantity. If still red and not dirty, it will be fine. Check also the volume. Note to check the auto transmission fluid level, the engine should be running and move the gear stick to “N”.
- Inspect the electronic fan, this one is proven to broke easily.
- Check for any leak from hoses, especially the for high pressure hose from automatic transmission and power steering.
Test Drive
- Turn on the engine, move the gear from P to R or D, do not press the throttle, let the gear engage than slowly pulling the car. If there is any delay, it is a poor auto transmission indicator, find another ZJ. Try also the 2 and 1 gear.
- Drive the car slowly and if possible go to dirty road or drive along side of the road, listen for any strange sound coming from the front and rear suspension. Any “dug” or ‘clunk” sound is indicator of poor tie rod and stabilizer link condition.
- Drive the car constantly at 35-40 mph, listen for any noise coming from lower part. The latest product of ZJ (1997-1998) are using “low-pinion” or normal-cut pinion for its front final gear (Dana 30). This type is less strong than the “high pinion” which is installed in the previous product, and lot of reports mention the damaged of front ring and pinion in very low mileage ZJ (mine was change at 9000 miles).
- Body roll is quite excessive in ZJ, its normal, you can install a harder spring and shock later on.
Friday, February 1, 2008
BUYING USED 4X4 VEHICLES
Buying used used 4x4 its fun and a bit tricky. Usually the person who have a plan to buy used 4x4 have also another plan in their mind: go to 4WD shop and looking for some additional accessories for the their 4WD.
Before you buy, take a little time for internet research, talk with your friend who have 4WD, then its good if you can decide what type 4WD that you want to buy. In this case its often someone want to buy a Jeep in their mind and back home with a Nissan Patrol.
If you serious about modification plan, consider your geographic area. In United States of course is a heaven for Jeep or Ford owners. In Aussie, jeep is minority and lack of available accessories, however its bunch and plenty supporting equipment for Toyota and Nissan. In Europe maybe you can looking for Land Rover.
There are some tips before you decide to purchase:
- Do a quick inspection for the exterior, looking for body damage, rust or maybe poor roof condition. Small dent and scratch is normal.
- Try to open and close all doors, make sure all doors can close properly. A poor door alignment is a sign that vehicle has a major crash previously.
- Open the engine hood, looks for any leaking from the engine, check for torn wire, check the fluids quality (engine oil, trans oil, brake oil, power steering oil).
- Check the radiator coolant, make sure there is no oil sign in the coolant.
- Go inside the car and inspect the interior, especially in the floor area. If the previous owner used this car for real off roading, there is always potential they used this car crossing a pond or river. A water could trap under the carpet and starting rust. Check all electrical instruments including air conditioning function.
- Turn on the engine, let it idle for a while. Inspect for any strange noise from the engine. If you look at for diesel engine 4WD, took a close hear near the injector pump. This pump is one of the main consideration, it is costly to repair.
-Engage the gear, and ask for test drive. If you inspect an automatic transmission car push the gear lever to every position (P, N, D, 3, 2, 1 etc), feel the engine pulling before you push the throttle.
That the above tips actually can use for any car, not only for for 4 WD. For the 4WD car you might need to inspect more like:
-After you check the gear in any position, then you should check the main 4WD facilities, the transfer case. In conventional 4WD is always using the second and smaller trans selection stick. In certain jeep there are 2H, N, 4H and 4L position. Try it all, if you are a beginner, ask the seller how to move the lever. Do it firmly without stop. Some times a “creeek” sound occur if you not move the lever firmly, its ok. After the selection engage try to move the car, make sure the gear still in its position, not pop to normal. The selection of transfer case position is vary from car to car. Some 4WD cars have no TC gear stick, the TC mode select by pushing a button. Do the same above procedure for push button 4WD like this.
- Now is time to crawling under the vehicle. Note: make sure the vehicle in save position. First check for oil leaking, its can be come from the engine, transmission, transfer case, front and rear axle, and sometimes come front high pressure hose for power steering or oil cooler. Minor leaking is not a major problem as long as the oil is always in the required volume.
- Go to front suspension system, this is the most complicated part to be inspect in 4WD vehicles. Check for the coil spring and shock absorber condition. Inspect for CV joint boot, this boot is easy to torn during off road driving.
- Check any scratch and dent, the muffler and catalytic converter is easy to dent, and the fuel tank is easy to scratch. Both indicators showing an extensive off road use.
- Look at tie rod and drag link boot, both parts are good indicator of maintenance frequency: degenerated boots and lube boggers show a great lack thereof.
- Gripped the driveshaft and rotated it side to side to check U-joint play in the yokes. It’s also a good idea to take a look at the U-joint straps or bolts to make sure that you won’t drop a driveshaft on the way home.
If you looking at RHD XJ Cherokee, inspect the steering rack – body connection, is. This steering rack house is proved to broke easily, reinforcement is mandatory.
- If the vehicle is equipped with suspension lift more than 1.5” , make sure it has all of the necessary equipment, such as transfer case drop-down or slip-yoke eliminator/short shaft kit and extended brake lines.
- Back to under engine hood, check the alternator, most of 4WD equipped with charge level meter, makes sure the charging level between 13-14 volt.
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